Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
My rating: 4 of 5 stars
I very much enjoyed this rather sweeping memoir, very ably narrated by the author. Finnegan shares stories of life from Honolulu to Portugal (Madeira) social upheavals of the 1960s. Along the way, he visits Polynesia, Australia, Northern and Southern California and more in many extended surfing ventures in a kind of 'endless summer' while he finds himself and his parents move forward with a career in TV entertainment production. William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker and has won several awards for his journalism, with the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Biography or Autobiography for this work being only about one slice of a rich and accomplished life that has included reporting from danger areas and even teaching in South Africa: Crossing the Line: A Year in the Land of Apartheid .
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